πŸ‡°πŸ‡· Apr 23–30

πŸ‡°πŸ‡· Seoul β†’ Gunsan β†’ Jeonju β†’ Busan β†’ Seoul

April 23 – April 30  |  Seattle ✈ Seoul (Incheon) round-trip

🍺 Craft Beer🌿 NatureπŸ€– Tech 🏯 Culture🍜 FoodπŸ›οΈ Colonial History 🏠 Hanok StayMid-Range
Seattle✈ Seoul Β· 2.5 days🚌 Gunsan Β· afternoon🚌 Jeonju Β· overnight🚌 Busan Β· 2.5 daysπŸš… Seoul✈ Seattle

πŸ›οΈ Why Gunsan?

Gunsan is a west-coast port city with Korea's best-preserved Japanese colonial architecture β€” a major Japanese trading port from 1899–1945. Old customs houses, colonial banks, Korea's only remaining Japanese-style Buddhist temple, and retro streets along abandoned railway tracks. Also a legendary food city β€” famous for jjamppong (spicy seafood noodle soup) and Lee Seong-dang, Korea's oldest bakery (est. 1945).

🏠 Why Jeonju?

Jeonju is only 30 minutes from Gunsan and is Korea's food capital β€” the birthplace of bibimbap. The Jeonju Hanok Village is arguably better than Seoul's Bukchon: 700+ traditional houses, more lively, less touristy, and magical at night with lanterns and lit-up eaves. Sleep in a real hanok guesthouse (heated floors, paper doors, courtyard) β€” one of the most memorable nights of the trip. The famous makgeolli bar street serves unlimited side dishes with every bowl of rice wine.

Arrive Seoul Land at Incheon β€” Settle In & First Dinner Wed, Apr 23
5:30 PM
Incheon Airport (ICN)
Land, clear customs, grab a data SIM (KT or SKT, ~$25/10 days) and T-money card for transit
πŸš†AREX Express Train Β· 43 min Β· β‚©9,000
6:30 PM
Hongik University Station β†’ Hotel
Check into Hongdae area (~$80–120/night). Drop bags, freshen up
πŸš‡Subway Line 6 Β· ~20 min
8:00 PM
Korean BBQ Dinner (Itaewon) Food
First meal: samgyeopsal grill-it-yourself. Soju, perilla leaf wraps. Maple Tree House or any Mapo-gu grill spot
🚢Walk · 2 min
9:30 PM
Magpie Brewing Craft Beer
Seoul's OG craft brewery β€” excellent IPAs, seasonal taps, relaxed vibe
πŸ’‘ Download before landing: Naver Maps (essential), Kakao Taxi, Papago (translation), Kobus (bus booking)
Seoul Day 1 Palaces, Hanok Villages & Street Markets Thu, Apr 24
9:00 AM
Gyeongbokgung Palace
Seoul's grandest Joseon-era palace (1395). Rent a hanbok at the gate β€” free entry + great photos. Guard ceremony at 10am
🚢Walk · 10 min uphill
10:30 AM
Bukchon Hanok Village
600+ preserved traditional houses on a hillside. Go early before tour groups
🚢Walk · 10 min downhill
12:00 PM
Insadong Lunch
Tea houses, calligraphy, galleries. Lunch: ssambap at a courtyard restaurant
🚢Walk · 10 min along stream
2:00 PM
Cheonggyecheon Stream
Restored urban waterway through downtown β€” willow-lined, peaceful
🚢Walk · 15 min east
5:30 PM
Gwangjang Market Must-Eat
Mayak gimbap, bindaetteok, yukhoe (raw beef + egg), pajeon. Wash down with makgeolli
πŸ’‘ This entire day is walkable β€” all sights are within ~2km of each other in central Seoul
Seoul Day 2 DMZ Tour, Tech & Namsan Sunset Fri, Apr 25
7:30 AM
DMZ / JSA Tour Book Ahead
Tour bus departs central Seoul. Book via USO Tours or Koridoor 1+ week ahead β€” requires passport details. JSA = stepping into North Korea under UN escort
🚌Tour bus · ~1.5 hrs to DMZ
9:30 AM
DMZ β€” Dorasan / 3rd Tunnel / Observatory
Last train station before North Korea, infiltration tunnel, Dora Observatory. Once-in-a-lifetime
🚌Tour bus return · ~1.5 hrs
1:30 PM
Return to Seoul β€” Quick Lunch
Grab something near Seoul Station en route to Gangnam
πŸš‡Subway Line 2 Β· ~30 min
3:00 PM
Samsung D'light (Gangnam)
Free Samsung tech showroom β€” future concepts, hands-on demos. ~1 hour
🚢Walk · 5 min underground
4:15 PM
COEX Starfield Library
Floor-to-ceiling bookshelves in a massive underground mall. Great photo spot
πŸš‡Subway + walk Β· ~30 min
6:00 PM
Namsan Seoul Tower β€” Sunset
Hike or cable car up for golden hour views. Late April sunset ~7pm. Forest walk is lovely in spring
πŸš‡Subway Β· ~15 min
8:00 PM
Tosokchon Samgyetang Food
Legendary ginseng chicken soup near Gyeongbokgung
πŸš‡Subway + walk Β· ~20 min
9:30 PM
Amazing Brewing Co. Craft Beer
Small-batch taproom in Seongdong-gu. Friday night here is great
Gunsan β†’ Jeonju Colonial Gunsan, Jjamppong β†’ Hanok Village by Night Sat, Apr 26
8:30 AM
Seoul Express Bus Terminal
Buses to Gunsan run ~every 30 min. Buy tickets at terminal or via Kobus app
🚌Express Bus · ~2.5 hrs
11:00 AM
Arrive Gunsan β€” Taxi to Old Town
Leave bags in a locker or carry light β€” you're only here for the afternoon before heading to Jeonju
πŸš•Taxi Β· ~10 min to old town
11:15 AM
Lee Seong-dang Bakery Must-Visit
Korea's oldest bakery, est. 1945. Famous danpatppang (red bean bread) and vegetable bread. The line is part of the experience β€” grab pastries to snack on during the walk
🚢Walk · 5 min
12:00 PM
Jjamppong Lunch β€” Binhaewon Must-Eat
Gunsan is THE city for jjamppong β€” fiery red broth packed with fresh seafood, handmade noodles. Binhaewon or Bokseong are the local legends
🚢Walk · 5 min
1:00 PM
Dongguksa Temple
Korea's only remaining Japanese-style Buddhist temple β€” built 1909. Striking contrast to Korean temple architecture
🚢Walk · 5 min
1:30 PM
Gunsan Modern History Museum
Covers Gunsan's role as a Japanese trading port β€” grain exports, colonial life, Korean resistance. Well-curated and moving
🚢Walk · 3 min
2:30 PM
Haemang-gil (Colonial Quarter Walk)
Preserved colonial streetscape β€” Japanese Customs House (1908), Jangmi Gallery (former Hiroshima Bank), traditional homes. Time-capsule feeling
πŸš•Taxi Β· ~10 min
3:30 PM
Gyeongam-dong Railway Village
Retro-themed street along abandoned railway tracks β€” vintage shops, murals, 1970s–80s Korea nostalgia. Good golden hour photos
πŸš•Taxi to bus terminal Β· ~15 min
4:30 PM
Bus to Jeonju
Intercity bus Gunsan β†’ Jeonju, runs frequently. Quick 30 min ride
🚌Intercity Bus · 30 min
5:00 PM
Arrive Jeonju β€” Hanok Guesthouse Hanok Stay
Check into a traditional hanok guesthouse inside the village β€” heated ondol floors, paper sliding doors, courtyard. A genuinely special night (~$60–100). Book ahead on Booking.com or Airbnb
🚢Walk · ~5 min into the village
5:30 PM
Jeonju Hanok Village β€” Evening Walk
700+ traditional houses, winding lanes, craft workshops, street food. At dusk the eaves light up with lanterns and the whole village glows β€” genuinely magical, much bigger and livelier than Seoul's Bukchon
🚢Walk · 10 min uphill
6:30 PM
Omokdae Viewpoint
Hilltop lookout over the entire Hanok Village β€” rooftops stretching out below you. Best at golden hour
🚢Walk · 10 min back down
7:30 PM
Makgeolli Bar Street Must-Try
Jeonju's famous makgeolli (rice wine) alley β€” order a kettle of makgeolli and they bring unlimited side dishes (8–15 plates of pajeon, tofu, kimchi, japchae, etc.). One of the best drinking cultures in Korea. Bring an appetite
πŸ’‘ Gunsan's old town sights are all within walking distance β€” you only need taxis to/from the bus terminal and Railway Village. Jeonju Hanok Village is entirely pedestrian
Jeonju β†’ Busan Bibimbap Breakfast, Morning Village β†’ Bus to Busan Sun, Apr 27
8:30 AM
Jeonju Bibimbap Breakfast Must-Eat
This is the birthplace of bibimbap β€” eat it here or regret it forever. Hangukjip or Gajok Hoegwan for the classic stone-bowl version with 30+ toppings. Opens early, expect a short line
🚢Walk · 5 min
9:30 AM
Hanok Village β€” Morning Walk
The village is quieter in the morning than the evening β€” different energy, morning light on the rooftops, artisan workshops opening up. Good for photos and souvenir shopping (hanji paper crafts, fans)
🚢Walk · 5 min
10:30 AM
Jeondong Catholic Church
Beautiful Romanesque church (1914) on the edge of the Hanok Village β€” one of the most striking buildings in Jeonju. Worth a quick look
🚢Walk Β· 5 min β€” grab a choco pie from a street vendor
11:00 AM
Street Food Stop Snacks
Before leaving: try Jeonju's PNB choco pie (famous local version), hotteok, or kongguksu (cold soy milk noodles) from a village vendor
πŸš•Taxi Β· ~15 min to bus terminal
11:30 AM
Jeonju Bus Terminal β†’ Busan
Express bus to Busan β€” ~3 hrs. Settle in, nap, enjoy the Korean countryside rolling by
🚌Express Bus · ~3 hrs
2:30 PM
Arrive Busan Bus Terminal
Check into hotel near Haeundae Beach (~$70–110/night)
πŸš‡Subway Β· ~30 min
4:00 PM
Haeundae Beach
Walk the famous strip. Late April = uncrowded. Marine City skyline across the bay is stunning at dusk
🚢Walk · ~15 min along coast
5:30 PM
Haeundae Blueline Park Sky Capsule
Colorful beach-side cable car pods along the coast. Killer ocean views β€” fun and photogenic
πŸš•Taxi Β· ~25 min
7:30 PM
Galmegi Brewing (Yeongdo) Craft Beer
Busan's best-known craft brewery β€” waterfront taproom with harbor views. A genuine trip highlight
Busan Day 1 Seaside Temple, Culture Village & Seafood Mon, Apr 28
8:00 AM
Haedong Yonggungsa Temple
Buddhist temple on ocean cliffs β€” one of the most photogenic spots in Korea. Go at 8am before buses. Hot hotteok from gate vendors
πŸš•Taxi Β· ~30 min
10:30 AM
Gamcheon Culture Village
Colorful hillside labyrinth β€” painted houses, murals, art installations in tiny alleyways. Built by Korean War refugees. Allow 1.5–2 hrs
πŸš•Taxi Β· ~10 min
1:00 PM
Jagalchi Fish Market Must-Eat
Korea's largest seafood market. Pick live fish/crab/octopus from tanks downstairs β†’ served as sashimi upstairs. Outstanding lunch
🚢Walk · 10 min
3:00 PM
BIFF Square / Gukje Market
Film festival zone + sprawling market β€” street snacks, vintage clothes, handicrafts. Try a ssiat hotteok (Busan's seed-filled version)
πŸš‡Subway Line 2 Β· ~35 min
6:00 PM
Gwangalli Beach & Diamond Bridge Dinner Spot
Busan's other iconic beach β€” more local than Haeundae. The Gwangan Diamond Bridge lit up at night across the water is spectacular. Excellent seafood restaurants along the strip
Busan Day 2 Mountain Temple, Beach & Final Night Tue, Apr 29
8:30 AM
Beomeosa Temple
Serene mountain temple at Geumjeongsan β€” far less touristy than Haedong. Beautiful forested approach, actual monks, prayer bells echoing
πŸš‡Subway Line 1 + walk Β· ~50 min
11:00 AM
Centum City / Shinsegae
World's largest department store (Guinness record). Multi-floor tech section, rooftop golf range. Pure Korean maximalism
🚢Walk · 5 min
12:30 PM
Dwaeji Gukbap Busan Classic
Busan's iconic pork bone & rice soup. Ssangdung is the classic spot
πŸš‡Subway Β· ~20 min
2:30 PM
Haeundae Beach β€” Afternoon
Relaxed afternoon β€” walk the coastal trail, dip feet in, people-watch. No rush today
🚢Walk · 15 min
5:00 PM
The Bay 101
Waterfront complex β€” yacht harbor, rooftop bars, sunset views of Marine City skyscrapers
πŸš•Taxi Β· ~15 min
7:00 PM
Milmyeon Dinner Final Busan Meal
Busan's signature cold wheat noodles β€” tangy, slightly spicy. Try Gaemi Milmyeon
🚢Walk · ~10 min
8:30 PM
Moontan Road (Night Walk)
Coastal path with sea views, LED art installations. Nice final evening walk
Departure Day KTX to Seoul β†’ Fly Home Wed, Apr 30
9:00 AM
Busan Station β€” KTX Book Ahead
Bullet train back to Seoul. Depart ~9am, arrive ~11:15am
πŸš…KTX Bullet Train Β· 2 hrs 15 min
11:15 AM
Arrive Seoul Station
Store luggage in station lockers (β‚©2–3k). ~4 hours before airport
πŸš‡Subway Β· ~15 min
12:00 PM
Last Meal β€” Naengmyeon or Dakgalbi Final Meal
Naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles) at Woo Lae Oak or a last-day wildcard. Pick up snacks: honey butter chips, instant ramen, dried seaweed
🚢Walk · ~10 min
1:30 PM
Gyeongui Line Forest Park (Yeonnam-dong)
Converted rail line β†’ linear park with cafΓ© strip. Last Korean coffee, final gift shopping. Low-key farewell
🚢Walk · ~10 min to Hongik Univ Stn
3:30 PM
AREX to Incheon Airport
Leave by 4:15 PM latest. AREX = 43 min. Allow 2.5 hrs before departure
πŸš†AREX Express Β· 43 min
7:35 PM
✈ Depart Incheon (ICN) β†’ Seattle (SEA)
~11 hr flight, arrive same calendar day
πŸ’‘ Seoul Station luggage lockers are a lifesaver β€” don't drag bags around on your last afternoon

πŸŒ‹ What About Jeju?

Jeju is spectacular β€” volcanic craters, lava caves, dramatic cliffs, black pork BBQ, abalone sashimi. But it requires a ~1 hr flight and deserves 2+ full days. Save it for a dedicated return trip.

πŸ“‹ Practical Notes

πŸ”΄ Book Before You Leave Home

  • DMZ / JSA Tour (Apr 25) β€” passport info, 1+ week out
  • KTX Busanβ†’Seoul (Apr 30) β€” departure day, don't chance it
  • Jeonju hanok guesthouse (Apr 26) β€” popular on weekends, book early
  • All other accommodation β€” 3 nights Seoul, 3 nights Busan

πŸ“± Apps to Download

  • Naver Maps β€” essential (Google has gaps)
  • Kakao Taxi β€” add payment card
  • Papago β€” better than Google Translate for Korean
  • Kobus β€” intercity bus booking
  • Korail β€” KTX booking

πŸ’³ Money

  • Korea is very card-friendly
  • Carry β‚© cash for markets, Gunsan/Jeonju stalls
  • Wise or Schwab debit = no foreign fees
  • T-money card for all transit

🌸 Weather, Late April

  • Seoul: 14–19Β°C (57–66Β°F)
  • Gunsan/Jeonju: 15–20Β°C, mild
  • Busan: 17–21Β°C, warmest
  • Pack layers for cool evenings

🏨 Where to Stay

  • Seoul (3 nights): Hongdae or Itaewon (~$80–120)
  • Jeonju (1 night): Hanok guesthouse in the village (~$60–100) 🏠
  • Busan (3 nights): Haeundae area (~$70–110)

πŸš— Getting Around

  • Seoul: subway + walking
  • Gunsan: taxis (cheap, ~β‚©4k anywhere)
  • Jeonju Hanok Village: entirely on foot
  • Busan: subway + taxis
  • Intercity: express buses (comfortable, frequent)